That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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Thebes, Tombstone
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Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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Thebes, Head of Artemis
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Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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Zeus and Ganymedes
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Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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Lycian portrait of Omphale
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Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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Eucratides II of Bactria
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Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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Lead figurine of Athena
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Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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Hellenistic ruler
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Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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Marathon, Arrowheads
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Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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Argos, Heraion, Sima
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Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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Decree of Tefnakht
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Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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