That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
 Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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 Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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 Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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 Eucratides II of Bactria
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 Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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 Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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 Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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 Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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 Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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 Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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 Lycian portrait of Omphale
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 Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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 Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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 Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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 Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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 Thebes, Tombstone
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 Zeus and Ganymedes
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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 Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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 Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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 Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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 Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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 Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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 Hellenistic ruler
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 Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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 Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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 Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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 Decree of Tefnakht
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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 Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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 Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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 Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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 Marathon, Arrowheads
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 Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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 Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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 Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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 Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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 Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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 Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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 Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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 Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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 Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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 Thebes, Head of Artemis
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 Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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 Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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 Lead figurine of Athena
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 Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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 Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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 Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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 Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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 Argos, Heraion, Sima
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 Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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 The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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 Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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 Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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 Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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 Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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 Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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 Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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 Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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 Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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 Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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 Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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 Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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 Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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 Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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 Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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 Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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